In a quiet nook of Andhra Pradesh, the place looms hum tales of historical past and heritage, the standard but regal Kuppadam saree continues to carry its floor as a image of tradition, artistry and evolving id. While most eyes flip to the celebrated Kanjeevarams or the intricate Banarasis, the Kuppadam saree tells its personal tale, one which begins within the looms of a small city known as Chirala in Bapatla district, positioned close to the well-known Suryalanka Beach.
What’s in a identify?
Kuppadam saree will get its identify from a advanced weaving method known as Koopadam. Inspired by a must design temple sarees with elaborate zari borders resembling temple structure, weavers of this area started interlocking silk borders with cotton or silk over 150 years in the past. It was a radical departure from the common border stitching, which required an assistant weaver. This units Kuppadam saree from Kanjeevarams different conventional saree designs.
Every thread spun in these six-yard wonders speaks of a deep-rooted cultural legacy handed down generations, held collectively by the dexterous palms of weavers who mix artwork and heritage on each warp and weft.
A Kuppadam Saree.
| Photo Credit:
T. VIJAY KUMAR
Sajja Ramakrishna, who has been weaving the sarees for the previous three a long time at Desaipeta village close to Chirala, says this distinctive method required a distinctive set of abilities handed down orally from one technology to the following. Stretching a half-woven saree throughout a loom at his residence, Ramakrishna says there was a time when he thought his loom would go silent however is now joyful that the general public have as soon as once more begun to understand these exquisitely designed sarees.
Ramakrishna added that the looms utilized in Chirala, a portmanteau phrase derived from ‘chira’ that means saree and ‘ala’ that means wave, are principally pit looms. Handloom materials made in Chirala are well-known for softness and sturdiness and suite all climates. Chirala looms principally manufacture cotton and pure silk sarees with half fantastic zari, with jacquard weave and gown supplies. The saree measures 1.19 m by 6.50 m.
What units them aside
Unlike common sarees the place the border and physique are woven in continuity, Kuppadam sarees employs a three-shuttle method whereby the border and the physique are woven individually and then interlocked manually at each line—a painstaking, time-consuming course of requiring excessive precision, defined B. Rambabu, a grasp weaver who offers materials to employees and procures the completed product to promote out there or provide to retailers.
Silk used to make Kuppadam sarees, at Chirala city in Bapatla district.
| Photo Credit:
T. VIJAY KUMAR
At the guts of the Kuppadam saree is a outstanding mix of cotton or silk physique and silk zari border, making it best for festive events in addition to common put on within the sultry local weather of coastal Andhra. The physique is usually woven in vibrant colors of pink, maroon, inexperienced and blue, with motifs impressed by nature, folklore and temple murals. The hallmark of these sarees is their wealthy pallu (finish piece) and distinctive gold or silver zari borders that replicate grandeur with out the load of full-silk sarees.
This light-weight enchantment, coupled with their affordability in comparison with pure silk sarees, has made them a staple in Andhra households, particularly throughout ceremonies akin to engagements, housewarmings and festivals like Sankranti and Ugadi.
Revival from extinction
By early 2000s, demand for Kuppadam sarees had dwindled as a result of rise of energy looms and cheaper artificial imitations. The painstaking weaving was no match for the pace and economics of machine-made sarees. As youthful generations moved away from the handloom career, the neighborhood of Kuppadam weavers started to shrink.
But simply then, a resurgence started. Quietly however firmly, initiatives such because the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme below the Ministry of Commerce and Industry gave weavers their much-needed assist. The State authorities has designated them because the ODOP for Bapatla district this yr, giving weavers a recent breath of life and recognition. The announcement was made by Babpatla District Collector J. Venkata Murali.
Siddi Venkata Buchheswara Rao, a service provider at Devangapuri close to Chirala, stated girls entrepreneurs and designer collectives had been now showcasing modern variations of Kuppadam sarees, merging tradition with innovation.
Evolving cultural significance
In Andhra tradition, gifting a Kuppadam saree to a bride or a daughter-in-law is seen as a gesture of elegance and familial pleasure. The saree turns into greater than an outfit, it transforms into a repository of reminiscence, worn throughout milestone moments akin to child showers, temple visits or the primary competition after marriage.
Moreover, the revival of this saree has had a vital socio-economic affect. According to authorities information, lots of of weaving households have resumed their looms in Chirala and neighboring villages. The weaving course of, usually a household endeavour, includes males working the looms whereas girls assist in dyeing, stretching the yarn, and post-weave elaborations.
Today, one can discover Kuppadam sarees infused with trendy aesthetics — digital motifs, modern pastel shades, minimalistic borders — all of the whereas retaining the important koopadam craftsmanship. Designers are working carefully with weavers to co-create restricted version sarees that enchantment to city shoppers and world markets.
Efforts are additionally below strategy to safe Geographical Indication (GI) standing for the saree, which might provide authorized safety and additional advertising benefit, says D. Venkateswara Rao, District Handlooms and Textiles Officer, Bapatla district. If secured, it’s going to assist protect the weaving method and defend artisans from exploitative imitation, he provides.
In the whirl of quick vogue and digital consumption, the Kuppadam saree stays a gradual and intentional artwork type. Every saree takes days to finish, and is a reflection of persistence, talent and a deep sense of pleasure in heritage. As the saree goes from looms of Chirala to the closets of clients, it does greater than wrap a physique—it wraps generations of reminiscence, craft and tradition. And in doing so, it ensures that Andhra Pradesh’s threads of legacy by no means actually unravel.
Published – June 28, 2025 08:14 am IST
