On the primary morning of Ganesh Chaturthi, the 10-day pageant that marks the arrival of Lord Ganesha into folks’s properties and group mandals, kitchens come alive earlier than the first light. Steam curls up from freshly floor rice flour, jaggery bubbles right into a sticky syrup, and girls collect round to coax delicate pleats into the steamed model of the modak or ukadiche modak. In most properties in Maharashtra, and Goa, the scent of sandalwood incense and marigolds hangs within the air, whereas youngsters run in and out, ready to pounce on the candy dumplings as soon as the aarti ends.
The thali contains chutneys, pickles, crispy aloo wadi and kothimbir wadi
| Photo Credit:
Nav Chaitanya
For many, this is the picture of Ganesh Chaturthi: Lord Ganesh, remover of obstacles, seated earlier than plates loaded along with his favorite candy. Modak has grow to be synonymous with the pageant, and behind it, a richer story continues to unfold. The pageant desk is not solely about sweets but in addition about group feasts, seasonal greens, and uncommon ritual meals which might be a testomony to regional variety, historic knowledge, and the very spirit of group that Lokmanya Tilak, one of many nation’s most distinguished freedom fighters and social reformers, sought to foster when he initiated the custom of public Ganesh celebrations in 1893.
Unifying pressure
The choices, generally known as naivedya, usually are not a one-size-fits-all affair. They are rooted within the particular geographical and communal id of the family. As meals author Saee Koranne-Khandekar paperwork in her ebook Pangat, A Feast : Food and Lore from Marathi Kitchens, regional substances and group practices dictate the festive menu. For instance, whereas the Brahmin communities of the Desh area, the historic heartland of Maharashtra, would possibly favour a candy flatbread known as puran poli and savoury lentil dish katachi amti, the Pathare Prabhus of the Konkan coast have a practice of together with seafood — a follow that displays their coastal surroundings and distinct cultural norms.
The ukadiche modak
| Photo Credit:
Nav Chaitanya
This devotion to regional authenticity is what impressed restaurateur Mitra Walke to launch Saee’s ebook at his restaurant, Nav Chaitanya, in Andheri. Having moved to Mumbai from Malvan in 2007, Mitra was pushed by nostalgia. “The longing to return home for Ganpati is real,” he displays. “Many, like us, can’t make it back, so why not bring a taste of home to them?” His festive thali is a revival of the standard pangat gatherings of his hometown, the place meals are served sizzling and in sequence, eaten whereas sitting on the ground.
Varan bhat
| Photo Credit:
Nav Chaitanya
This yr’s thali contains chutneys, pickles, crispy aloo wadi and kothimbir wadi set, whereas karela bhaji provides a delicate bitterness and dishes like kala vatana usal (black peas dal) and alu chi fadfada (a Maharashtrian curry made with colocasia leaves) convey earthy depth. Freshly fried vade carry the aroma of festive mornings, balanced by the delicate sweetness of sooji (semolina) and the cooling freshness of chibud melon (quite a lot of mush melon). Classics like varan bhaat (pigeon pea dal and rice) with ghee and masale bhaat floor the unfold in custom. Guests at Nav Chaitanya can expertise this festive thali in timed sittings at 11.00 am, 12.30pm, 2.00pm, and 3.30pm, with pricing at ₹899 plus taxes for adults and ₹399 plus taxes for youngsters aged beneath 12.
The pangat thali
| Photo Credit:
Nav Chaitanya
Beyond the acquainted dishes, the pageant holds lesser-known meals traditions tied to particular days. Rushi Panchami, which falls on the second day, is a major instance. This day is devoted to the veneration of the seven historic sages (Saptarishi), and the meals ready is an act of devotion. The heart piece is the rushi panchami chi bhaji, a combined vegetable dish. While the Brahmanda Purana and different Hindu scriptures don’t checklist the recipe by title, they dictate that the quick have to be damaged with meals grown with out using a plough and oxen. This dish adheres to a strict rule: it have to be produced from greens and grains that haven’t been grown with the assistance of a plough and oxen.
The unfold on the primary day
| Photo Credit:
Nav Chaitanya
Beyond this, the act of providing meals is a ritualistic ceremony in itself. The Shodashopachara (a structured ceremony designed to deal with the deity as an honoured visitor), or the 16-step tribute to Ganesh, is the cornerstone of the puja. As journalist Kaumudi Marathé highlights in her ebook, The Essential Marathi Cookbook, the 21 modaks supplied usually are not merely a favorite meals; “they are a mandatory part of this ritual, underscoring their deep-seated spiritual significance.”
Diverse attraction
While modaks steal the highlight, Delhi-based chef and content material creator Keertida Phadke, who hails from Pune, champions one other festive deal with from her household kitchen: nivagrya. “It’s the unsung hero of the season,” she laughs. “No one ever plans to make nivagrya, they just happen.” The course of is instinctive and resourceful. The leftover ukad — the rice flour dough from making modaks — is combined with coriander, inexperienced chillies, cumin, and salt, then rolled into rustic shapes and steamed. “Where modak-making is a high-stakes ritual, nivagrya are easy, forgiving. You can season and shape them however you like,” she says. For Keertida, they embody a resourceful mindset: by no means losing, all the time repurposing. “It’s this genius little snack born out of what’s left behind.”
Nivagrya
| Photo Credit:
Keertida Phadke
In Goa, Pankaj Kamble, who curates meals walks for immersive journey start-up Soul Travelling, views the pageant as a lesson in native historical past. He factors to the khatkhate, a basic vegetable stew from the Konkan area. Its title echoes the sound of greens cooking, and the dish itself is a ceremonial providing of the land’s first bounty. The secret to its flavour lies within the fragrant triphal, a Goan spice just like Sichuan peppercorns that provides a refined, peppery tingle. Pankaj additionally mentions the fried talniche modak, which presents a satisfying crunch and longer shelf life, making it an ideal present for visiting visitors.
Pankaj believes {that a} nuanced perspective is very important when discussing the pageant’s vegetarian-only rule. “While the vast majority of Maharashtrians observe a strict vegetarian diet during the 10 days, a few communities stand apart,” he says. He cites the Pathare Prabhus of Mumbai, who’ve a long-standing customized of providing non-vegetarian dishes to the goddess Gauri. “This unique practice speaks volumes about how community identity can shape religious observance,” he provides.
Rooted in custom
This regional specificity is additionally on the coronary heart of the celebration for Shraddha Bhonsle, a member of the Sawantwadi royal household by marriage, who runs The Sawantwadi Palace Boutique Art Hotel (which kinds a part of the Sawantwadi Palace) along with her husband. Her festive menu is a meticulously deliberate panch pakwan, a strictly vegetarian five-fold providing to Lord Ganesh, which after the ritualistic providing is full, the meals is thought of prasad and distributed among the many household, mates and neighbours.. “The variety on the menu is a testament to the cultural richness of the festival,” she explains. The feast contains quite a lot of bhajis and pulses, accompanied by staples like crispy puri and the important varan and bhat. A refreshing koshimbir (a easy salad of cucumber and yogurt) and the tangy sol kadhi (a staple of the Konkan area believed to assist digestion) floor the meal in its Konkan heritage.
A particular meal of varan bhat accompanied by 21 particular greens at Sawantwadi Palace
| Photo Credit:
Shraddha Bhonsle
After the grand morning feast, the night meal is an easier affair, reflecting the transition from formal worship to household time. Yet, the ritualistic precision continues. The second day, known as Rushi Panchami, for a big quick. “The energy of welcoming Ganpati Bappa is immense, but the next day is equally important,” she explains. “It’s a time for reflection.” TThe quick, which lasts for a bit of more than a day and contains milk and fruits, is damaged with a particular meal of varan bhat accompanied by 21 particular seasonal greens, all grown with out using a plough. “It’s a conscious choice,” she says, “a way to connect with a more natural way of living, even if just for this one meal.”
The Bhonsles of Sawantwadi
The checklist of greens she offers reads like a celebration of the wild and uncultivated: alu, pumpkin, lal bhaji, and even wild yams like karande and elephant foot. “This seemingly eclectic mix holds deep meaning,” Shraddha displays. “It’s about maintaining those connections to our traditions, understanding the ‘why’ behind what we do.”
