Here’s why designer Payal Khandwala chose brocade for her new collection

Somewhere between the structural symmetry and textural concord, which outline the plain inventive arch of Mumbai-based trend designer Payal Khandwala’s newest spring-summer collection, there lies the quiet world of refined particulars. Released below the designer’s eponymous label, the untitled collection has been assigned to the chronological variety of the edits that Payal has curated until date — 13. It champions handwoven silk and a modified, extra muted model of brocade, whereas making a modest try at fixing the wardrobe disaster for events which might be neither too formal, nor too informal.

Payal, who pursued a level in tremendous arts on the Parsons School of Design in New York, earlier than launching her debut collection in 2012, explains the intent that dictates her current work. “I consciously refrain from naming collections in general unless there is a very specific starting point. Even when I’d paint, I titled my canvases untitled. I prefer this because otherwise it spoon-feeds the viewer to have a response. Also, if the inspiration is too abstract or esoteric, then naming it becomes an exercise in retrofitting,” she says.

Payal’s collection additionally pivots on reverse engineering
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The collection, she says, has been within the making for the previous seven to eight months. And although she admits to silk and brocade being uncommon materials to choose for a summer season edit, she elaborates on the strategies that add worth to its design language. “What I wanted to do this time was to continue using brocade as a craft, even though it’s not festive season. While we typically associate brocade with gold and silver thread I replaced it with silk so that, whilst still a woven detail and it using all the technical aspects of brocade, the outcome is a bit more subtle. I love pushing back things, as much as possible, without losing the intricacy. Ours, I guess, is quieter luxury,” she says, including that she purposely saved linens and cotton at bay. Like most of her collections, this launch can be restricted to some items.

Fashion designer Payal Khandwala
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“The mood board of most of my collections, you could say, depends on my own. I only make clothes that I wear. A lot of my clothes are designed for mini special occasions, from birthdays to dinner dates. I was looking to make something that women could wear to elevated prêt occasions. So, I figured the customer that wears the garments for a dinner or a cocktail or a gallery opening are going to be in an air-conditioned environment for the most part. In that case, silk doesn’t become a big hindrance also because we make several lighter silks and silk regulates body temp as well. Also, functionality takes centre stage in my garments. I make clothes that are easy to wear, pack and travel with,” she says.

Payal will get the materials woven by craft clusters in Varanasi and Phulia in West Bengal
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As an instance, she lists a protracted black jacket, which works properly as a layer. “We also have a mustard, free sized jacket; relaxed and like most of my garments, it is very comfortable and fuss free when it’s cooler indoors. There’s also an olive green jacket for the women that are more comfortable being a bit more creative with silhouettes. I try to solve wardrobe problems for women; I started the label for this reason, because when I was looking for clothes the options were mostly coordinates that were too formal or that felt too traditional, and whilst travelling felt rather costume like. I wanted to create separates that were luxurious but also versatile,” she shares.

Payal focusses on the development of the garment, with respect to pleats and drapes
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Payal says that she strictly focusses on the development of the garment, with respect to pleats and drapes. “If I’m making a jacket, I will rethink the lapel, add a belt or an architectural element or detail like our signature asymmetrical cuffs. Sometimes it will be a contrast lining, like the red lining I used in the olive-green jacket,” she says. Payal’s collection additionally pivots on reverse engineering. “For instance, if I want the trouser hem to have nine inches of black, then shift to four inches of yellow and six of silver at the waist, then the fabric is woven in that weight for that particular trouser, with the colour blocking at the loom stage. It’s not cut and sewn or patched onto the garment. You may also spot a border where the texture changes to satin, but it’s not sewn it’s woven. I like my garments to be pared down; they neither have embellishments nor embroidery. The weave is always the hero,” she provides.

The collection additionally incorporates a toned-down color palette
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Payal will get her textiles woven by craft clusters in Varanasi and Phulia in West Bengal. She additionally has three workshops and two studios in Colaba, together with two shops, one in Kala Ghoda and one other in New Delhi. With textured brocade and silk at its core, the collection additionally incorporates a toned-down color palette. Oscillating between murky yellow and indigo, it tickles the eyes with spicy reds and smooth olive inexperienced.

A garment from Payal’s new collection
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She says, “I’m more interested in colour as intellect vs ornament. I made, with paint, a shade of yellow that I loved. It was the perfect dirty shade of mustard with just a hint of green. I found a deep red that paired well with it and then picked the olive as neutral to push back the two string colours. A cool toned blue to contrast completed the palette. All the colours in my collection have to work as one unit. I also included black and ivory, for the days when you don’t want to make another decision about what you want to wear. Then you just put your white shirt on.”

The collection begins at ₹27,800 on payalkhandwala.com and the model’s shops in Mumbai and Delhi.