In each Chettiar family sits a pettagam, a big, conventional iron chest or strongbox that shops the household’s valuables. More importantly although, it holds the jewellery handed down via a number of generations. These iron chests include advanced lock combos and, in some households, have remained unopened for years, as newer generations are but to discover a solution to bypass the mechanics.
A cheery, vibrant yellow constructing with inexperienced home windows tucked away in Karaikudi, nevertheless, guarantees a deep dive into the wealthy and layered historical past of the jewellery of the area. This is Pettagam, India’s first private museum for Chettinad jewellery, conceived by jewellery designer Meenu Subbiah.
Among the earliest graduates from South India on the Gemological Institute of America, Meenu has been engaged on conventional Chettinad jewellery and exploring up to date designs via her model, Meenu Subbiah Jewellery, which she based along with her father in 1993.
Meenu Subbiah
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Special Arrangement
“Chettinad, much like its mansions, cuisine, and textiles, has beautiful jewellery, created with deep meaning. Every motif you see has a purpose and history. However, this fascinating legacy has not been documented well enough,” says Meenu. This led her to embark on almost 20 years of analysis, as she sought to delve deeper into the Natukottai Nagarathar group and their historical past with commerce, valuable gems, and jewellery. “I travelled across the country, and to Singapore, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and several other places to speak to members of the community, historians, and anyone else who could share some insight and nuance,” says Meenu.
In Karaikudi, we step into the end result of her travels and analysis at Pettagam, the place the first ground is devoted to tracing the historical past of the Nagarathar group that Meenu belongs to. She factors out that the Silappadhikaram, the Tamil epic, paperwork the Nagarathars as merchants of rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and pearls as early because the 2nd Century.
A show on the museum
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Through jewellery distinctive to the group — such because the kazhuthuru, an decoration given to a Nagarathar bride throughout marriage, and the gowrishankaram, thought of to be a very powerful decoration worn by males throughout occasions and ceremonies together with weddings — we study concerning the uncommon and dwindling artwork of the close-setting method. This method, utilized in lower than 10% of conventional jewellery, securely encases diamonds or different valuable gems from the perimeters and again, within the valuable metallic used to make the piece.
“This is a rather complex and time-consuming art, and we unfortunately have a dwindling number of artisans who still practise it. Through Pettagam, we were keen on reviving this dying art. Pieces made with this technique are sturdy and come with so much nostalgia; they are pieces of the heart, and no machine can make this kind of jewellery,” Meenu says. At Pettagam, a separate show showcases the instruments utilized in crafting jewellery via the close-setting method.
Another side she highlights are the distinctive motifs — from crabs and peacocks, to bows, laces, and conches that recur in Nagarathar jewellery. “Nagarathars who travelled were said to follow the crab routes, which is why it finds a place of prominence in many pieces, including our thirumangalyam (marriage ornament). Bows and laces are believed to have originated from visits to the royal family in England,” she says.
While the bottom ground additionally has an AV room taking part in a movie that takes guests via the prominence of jewellery in Nagarathar tradition, the first ground is a devoted house for jewellery showcases. “Apart from heirloom pieces my family owns, I hope to have a rotating display of exquisite traditional pieces sourced from different families in this region. Alongside this will be a showcase of jewellery from my brands as well, which will also be available for purchase,” Meenu says.
Mayil Maguri
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Her newly launched model, Vilasam, which specialises in conventional Chettinad jewellery can have a spot of prominence on the museum, additionally highlighting the close-setting method. Contemporary jewellery from her Menaya model, and jewellery particular to completely different elements of the nation, together with guttapusalu from Andhra Pradesh and kaasu maalai from Kerala, tailored as a part of the Vamsam vary, may even be showcased.
Pettagam now joins the ranks of private jewellery museums throughout the nation, just like the Amrapali Museum in Jaipur, which spotlights distinctive craftsmanship and methods whereas documenting jewellery legacies. Meenu provides, “Every region in our country has a beautiful ancestral legacy in jewellery, and these legacies deserve to be protected and preserved. This museum is an important archive of Chettinad and its jewellery, while also underscoring the importance of preserving traditional jewellery-making techniques.”
Pettagam is at SRM Street, Karaikudi, and opens for guests from October 1. Guests can go to by making an appointment through e-mail at concierge@meenusubbiah.luxe or by cellphone at 9566503736. Entry is free.
