Wander into Chennai’s first speakeasy fashion bar and uncover distinctive cocktail and meals pairings

I’ve reached an age when all the things is just too loud. Bars, concert events, and the inevitably rambunctious household sitting beside me at a restaurant. So, I’m intrigued once I hear whispers a few speakeasy launching in Chennai. Particularly since — for as soon as — it’s being curated for a crowd that has outgrown tequila photographs, packed dance flooring and the thud of techno all evening. 

The Madras Cocktail Firm — shortened to MadCo — is tucked away on a facet road and our first problem is discovering it. As soon as we do, we push open a heavy door to disclose a comfortable area lit with tender buttery lights on the ceiling and dominated by a glossy bar.  

Santhosh Zachariah Abraham, managing companion of MadCo says, “As an individual of round 40 I’ve reached a stage the place I need a area the place I can sit, chill and speak. Proper now, in Chennai we now have both household bar eating places or hectic evening golf equipment.” MadCo is neither.  

As his lead bartenders, Vishal and Rohit Rajput, shake up boozy cocktails, one of many waiters units a plate of crunchy shrimp heads fried in ghee in entrance of us. The moreish dish is a gutsy alternative — it should enchantment solely to a distinct segment viewers. Santhosh shrugs, “That’s tremendous. We expect it’s scrumptious.”  

Charting a defiant path is feasible solely if you’re not focusing on a mass viewers, and MadCo is intentionally small, with area for simply 50 individuals. Founding companion R V S Kiran, who has spent over a decade within the lodge business, says they’re continually in search of methods to innovate. “We’re planning to introduce new themes and concepts frequently, conserving it recent for our visitors! Going ahead, additionally count on plenty of collabs with the perfect bars and cooks from throughout Asia…” he says

“We’re a group bar, not a business bar,” says Santhosh, including that they plan to open to simply about 25 individuals within the preliminary weeks.  

A Fiery Amethyst with purple cabbage infused vodka
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Particular Association

For a similar cause, the menu, and area are nonetheless work in progress: For the previous month family and friends have been dropping by with ideas which might be being examined by the younger staff. Although Vishal and Rohit are solely of their early 20s, they’ve already labored in a number of bars, and are snug sufficient with fashionable mixology strategies like clarification, fats washing and fermentation to make use of them judiciously, whereas nonetheless retaining the attraction of traditional cocktails.  

With 60 ml pours, the drinks are heady and largely spirit ahead, although there are additionally enjoyable choices like a candy tiki cocktail referred to as Havana Banana, made with white rum, coconut rum and house-made banana syrup served in an owl formed glass, or the Lame Duck, made with scotch whisky, oranges, and honey, and served in cheery yellow duck mug.   

For the reason that infusions, cordials and syrups are made in-house, utilizing strategies like sous vide, fermentation and dehydration, prep begins a day forward. “We additionally make the cocktails in batches, so your first drink and final drink of the evening would be the similar, regardless of how busy the bar will get,” says Santhosh.  

The Mallipoo Spritz served with Chinese language-ish chilli rooster
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Particular Association

Over the course of an more and more blurry night, I attempt the Suleimani old school, which is a darkish, spiced tea laced with bourbon and sweetened with cinnamon. Adopted by a spicy picante, stained purple with cabbage-infused vodka and spiked with jalapeño for an added kick. There’s a Mallipoo Spritz as nicely, a nod to Chennai, made with tequila and a jasmine cordial. Additionally they have all of the classics, from a negroni to whisky bitter.

Attempt their potent espresso martinis, impressed by the cheekily named Cafe Ruse subsequent door, additionally run by the identical staff. If you happen to insist on being sq., there’s additionally a daily alcohol menu with a choice of wine and spirits. No beer on faucet, however there will likely be a few bottled choices.   

Culinary marketing consultant Mathangi Kumar arrives on the desk bearing plates of fluffy fingers of brioche, piled with truffle oil scented mushrooms. The menu is imaginative, however practical, providing small plates of meals that go nicely with alcohol: rooster pakora, a Cheeselings jhalmuri laced with mustard oil, cheese toast and crunchy spring rolls full of haleem.  

We additionally attempt their 5 spice rooster wrapped in garlicky chillies, eggs on toast and fried rice tossed with edamame, greens and pickle oil. That is considerate fusion, merging flavours that work collectively as a substitute of simply creating Instagrammable-food. (Which is actually a aid, I can’t take any extra pull up muffins or Korean cheese buns.)  

A suleimani quaint served with gongura tempura
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Particular Association

That is meals for grownups.  

Glitches will likely be inevitable with this younger bar for older individuals. The menu continues to be being tweaked, and can proceed to evolve over the following few months. However MadCo is an attention-grabbing experiment, and its best energy maybe is an consciousness of its flaws: and the declaration that they’re open to vary.  

For reservations and instructions DM madco_Chennai on Instagram . Open from 5pm. Closed on Mondays. About ₹3,500 for 2